Kate&Daryl Administrator – Kate&Daryl https://kateanddaryl.com Adventures of Team Awesome Mon, 05 Mar 2018 02:23:07 +0000 en-US hourly 1 On Lifetime Goals https://kateanddaryl.com/2018/03/on-lifetime-goals/ https://kateanddaryl.com/2018/03/on-lifetime-goals/#respond Mon, 05 Mar 2018 02:07:36 +0000 /?p=393 Continue reading →]]> As a parent my time to climb is a lot more limited than it used to be, so I’ve been thinking about where I want to get as a climber and how to get there.  I’ve always been motivated by quality of climbs that I do more than the volume of climbing that I do, so I tend to pay attention to the perceived classics.  When the new Rumney guidebook came out recently one of the first things I did was flip through it and see what the updated collection of 3-star classics was.  I intend to do as many as I can at all grades, but these are the ones listed that are 13a and harder:

Route Status
The Skewer (13a)
Journey to a Mushroom Planet (13a) Beta WIP
Butt Bongo Fiesta (13a) Sent
Tin Monkeys (13a/b) Sent
Beat Junkie (13b) Sent
Coral Sea (13b) Sent
Cote d’Azure (13b) Sent
Thin Man (13b) Sent
Predator (13b) Sent
Rocket Man (13c/d) Beta WIP
Urban Surfer (13d) Sent
Barracuda (13d) Beta Dialed
Cold War (14a) Sent
Parallel Universe (14a) Beta WIP
China Beach (14b) Beta WIP
Livin’ Astro (14c) Beta WIP
Livin’ Astroglide (14c)
Jaws 2 (15a)

Of these, Jaws feels like it’s out of reach, but China Beach and Livin’ Astro really motivate me. As a parent I haven’t had a lot of time to get outside and I’ve had to be efficient with my training. I’ve been trying to play the long game and build base fitness that is slow in coming. As part of this I opted to redo the Lattice Assessment last month to assess where I am and where I need to go.

Profile Attribute Expectation for 14c Reality Training Priority
Push:Pull 1.9:1 – 2.1:1 1.9:1 Low
Push Ability 44 23 High
Pull Ability 22 12 High
Finger Strength 100% (avg), 95% (tall) 100% Low
FS Difference 0% 8% High
Lactate Curve 0.1 0.2512 High
Anaerobic Capacity 28% 13.19% Very High
Aerobic Power 205 s 144 s High
Aerobic Contribution 25% 2.1% Very High

Apparently my profile is in good shape for a 13a climber, and the Lattice folks think that 5+ years would be a realistic timeline to get to 14c. Neither this nor the summary of results was surprising. I was happy to see that my endurance numbers (while still in rough shape) had improved markedly since my last assessment a few years ago despite reduce training volume.

Some other fitness considerations include:

  • Mobility
  • Finger health
  • Shoulder health
  • Skin health

More observations to come!

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